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Diseño de una crema fitocosmética a partir del extracto de cáscara de Nephelium lappaceum L. aplicando un diseño de mezcla
Design of a phytocosmetic cream from Nephelium lappaceum L. peel extract applying a mixture design
Desenvolvimento de um creme fitocosmético a partir do extrato da casca de Nephelium lappaceum L. aplicando um design de mistura.
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.15446/rcciquifa.v54n1.116703Palabras clave:
Nephelium lappaceum L (achotillo), crema fitocosmética, diseño D-optimal, evaluación sensorial (es)Nephelium lappaceum L (achotillo), phytocosmetic cream, D-optimal design, sensory evaluation (en)
Nephelium lappaceum L. (achotillo), creme fitocosmético, design D-Optimal, avaliação sensorial (pt)
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Objetivo: Diseñar una crema a partir de un extracto hidroalcohólico de la cáscara de Nephelium lappaceum L (achotillo) para fines cosméticos. Métodos: Se evaluó la calidad de la droga cruda y del extracto hidroalcohólico al 80 % de cáscaras de achotillo, determinando su actividad antioxidante mediante el ensayo DPPH. En el diseño de la crema se utilizó un diseño de mezcla con restricciones, con cera autoemulsionable, alcohol cetílico y agua como factores, y pH y extensibilidad (24 y 72 horas) como variables respuesta. Se realizó una evaluación sensorial de las formulaciones óptimas (100 % deseabilidad) mediante encuestas a 50 estudiantes universitarios. El Análisis de Correspondencia Múltiple se utilizó para explorar relaciones entre variables significativas. Preliminarmente, se evaluó la estabilidad de la formulación 13 bajo condiciones de estrés térmico y centrifugación. El análisis microbiológico siguió la norma INEN 2867:2015 para productos cosméticos. Resultados: La droga cruda y el extracto presentaron valores comparables a estudios previos, y la actividad antioxidante por DPPH fue de 9,0603 mg/g TEAC. Los datos de extensibilidad se ajustaron a modelos cuadráticos significativos (p<0,05) con un R² de 0,7829. La evaluación sensorial identificó a la formulación 13 como la más aceptada, la cual mostró un pH 5,10, viscosidad y extensibilidad adecuadas. Las pruebas de estabilidad física preliminares arrojaron resultados favorables y las formulaciones no mostraron crecimiento bacteriano o fúngico. Conclusiones: Se diseñó un nuevo producto fitocosmético con extracto de Nephelium lappaceum L., utilizando diseño experimental para optimizar componentes. La formulación 13 destacó por su alta aceptación sensorial.
Objective: To design a cream using a hydroalcoholic extract from the peel of Nephelium lappaceum L (rambutan) for cosmetic purposes. Methods: The quality of the raw material and the 80% hydroalcoholic extract of rambutan peel was evaluated, and antioxidant activity was determined using the DPPH assay. A constrained mixture design was employed for the cream formulation, with self-emulsifying wax, cetyl alcohol, and water as factors, and pH and spreadability (measured at 24 and 72 hours) as response variables. Sensory evaluation of the optimal formulations (100% desirability) was conducted via surveys with 50 university students. Multiple Correspondence Analysis was applied to explore relationships between significant variables. Preliminary stability of formulation 13 was assessed under thermal stress and centrifugation conditions. Microbiological analysis was performed in accordance with the INEN 2867:2015 standard for cosmetic products. Results: The raw material and extract demonstrated values consistent with previous studies, with antioxidant activity measured at 9.0603 mg/g TEAC by DPPH. Spreadability data fit significant quadratic models (p<0.05) with an R² of 0.7829. Sensory evaluation identified formulation 13 as the most preferred, exhibiting a pH of 5.10, and appropriate viscosity and spreadability. Preliminary physical stability tests yielded favorable results, with no bacterial or fungal growth detected in the formulations. Conclusions: A novel phytocosmetic cream incorporating Nephelium lappaceum L. extract was successfully developed using experimental design techniques to optimize component ratios. Formulation 13 stood out for its high sensory acceptance
Objetivo: Desenvolver um creme a partir de um extrato hidroalcoólico da casca de Nephelium lappaceum L. (achotillo) para fins cosméticos. Métodos: Avaliou-se a qualidade da droga crua e do extrato hidroalcoólico a 80% das cascas de achotillo, determinando sua atividade antioxidante por DPPH. No desenvolvimento do creme, utilizou-se um design de mistura com restrições, com cera autoemulsionante, álcool cetoestearílico e água como fatores, e pH e extensibilidade (24 e 72 horas) como variáveis resposta. A avaliação sensorial das formulações ótimas (100% de desejabilidade) foi realizada por meio de questionários aplicados a 50 estudantes universitários. A Análise de Correspondência Múltipla foi utilizada para explorar relações entre variáveis significativas. Preliminarmente, avaliou-se a estabilidade da formulação 13 em condições de estresse térmico e centrifugação. A análise microbiológica seguiu a norma INEN 2867:2015 para produtos cosméticos. Resultados: A droga crua e o extrato apresentaram valores comparáveis a estudos anteriores, e a atividade antioxidante por DPPH foi de 9,0603 mg/g TEAC. Os dados de extensibilidade ajustaram-se a modelos quadráticos significativos (p<0,05) com um R² de 0,7829. A avaliação sensorial identificou a formulação 13 como a mais aceita, com pH de 5,10, viscosidade e extensibilidade adequadas. Os testes preliminares de estabilidade física apresentaram resultados favoráveis e as formulações não mostraram crescimento bacteriano ou fúngico. Conclusões: Foi desenvolvido um novo produto fitocosmético com extrato de Nephelium lappaceum L., utilizando design experimental para otimizar os componentes. A formulação 13 destacou-se por sua alta aceitação sensorial.
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